You can use 18650 battery to run youre camera heres how

Use 12v pack one 12v adapter wich will change it to 5v then usb to camera that will change voltage to 1.5v works fine or a AA 12v pack like this

All you have to do know is report back to us after two years to see if all those 18650s lasts as long as two Energizer Ultimate Lithium batteries.

Who knows lol we will see

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Who knows how long they’ll last, you say years, but I’ll take a guess and say that you’ll be lucky to get more than a few months. Happy with charging them so often, fair enough, but it simply isn’t cost effective or even practical. You’d be better with appropriately selected batteries fitted right in the camera, but even then it would still present problems. Plus, if you’re taking a lead to it, so it is no longer wireless, why not just power it. Okay, if it’s for a tree, fair enough, but you’d still be way better off making a nearby 3V pack, of say half a dozen normal Blink batteries, appropriately paralleled, as necessary, and powering the correct battery terminals directly in the camera. Drill a hole to get the wire in there, and seal it up with hot glue.

The problem you have with your setup is that you are now running two extra pieces of equipment from your new high capacity pack that aren’t in the frame when powered by the internal batteries. From the internal batteries only, the camera is designed to be unbelievably efficient, light on its power requirements, especially when not actually streaming video. Those extra two stages, not so much effort will have gone into those.

First you have the power to run your first DC/DC convertor, 12V to 5V USB, then you have the power required to run the second DC/DC convertor, in the camera, 5V to 3V, not 1.5V by the way. These will both have inefficiencies, but especially the car one, and it will be more inefficient at the low current demand of a Blink camera in sleep mode. The lower the current required, usually the lower the efficiency of such devices within the devices specifications, of course.

Neither has to be designed with high efficiency in mind. The car one is not concerned with how much power it wastes, because it expects to be powered by a huge car battery, that is regularly topped up when running the car. The second stage DC/DC convertor in the camera also has no need to be particularly efficient, because the logic behind that one is that you will be plugged into the mains. Want highly efficient low loss convertors, that also have very high efficiency at low current, then guess what, you have to pay a lot of money, and they still probably wouldn’t be efficient enough. I wouldn’t be surprised if the car one even sits there getting warm. How long do you think the batteries will last running a little heater, which is sort of what it will be? Well, I exaggerate, but I’m sure you see the point.

Regardless, let’s assume them to be very efficient, they’re not that efficient, but it doesn’t take much to drain your pack, when sitting there just wasting power ALL the time, for no reason, but let’s assume they are. Sadly, this is not all you’re going to be faced with. 18650s, like all lithium ion batteries suffer from self discharge, which the non rechargeable lithium batteries in the camera do not. Well of course they do, but it is incredibly low, with at least a 10 year shelf life. How much will those 18650s self discharge? Well it won’t take you long to research it and find out that they lose 5% in the first 24 hours, and around 2% per month thereafter, and if they have built in overcharge and over discharge protection, many do, then you can factor in another 3% per month.

Want to know how much power your wasting. Stick a current meter in one of your 12V lines, and record the current. Be sure to wait for the camera to fully initialise, and to be sitting there idle, for a true reading of what it will be doing most of the time. Once you have that figure, some very basic maths will tell you how long that pack will last, even if the camera did nothing at all the whole time. This, not accounting for self discharge, of course. If your calculation comes out at more than a year, without taking into account self discharge, I will be surprised, but by all means share your result. I’m sure you have a multimeter with which you can establish the baseline.

Does it work, of course, you’re powering a USB power supply, with its expected 12V, and you’re using its USB output to power a camera via its USB port. How could it not, but is it practical, I’m not so sure? Let us know how much current it draws, and how long you calculate that they will last based on that, or also let us know the capacity of your 18650s, and we can do it, and then we can factor in something for self discharge to give you a realistic answer, other than, “and your batteries will last, who knows, years?”

How do all those 3rd party Blink doo-dads get created? WTF is a Risky Business. If you can’t say it, you can’t do it. Now you know how Tesla vehicles with giant battery packs were created.

Rebecca De Mornay… the train scene… very important to my formative years…

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Yes, no, maybe. Words to live by.

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