Blink Mini Camera to sync module signal strength

Any ideas as to why the Blink app is not displaying “Camera to sync module” signal strength for my Blink Mini’s but it does for my Blink Outdoor camera? Everything seems to be working so I assume the minis are connected to the Sync Module 2, but are only showing the “camera to wifi” signal strength whereas the outdoor displays both camera to sync module and camera to wifi signal strengths.

Minis don’t connect to the sync module, so nothing to display. Even when utilising the local storage option of the sync module 2, the route is by WiFi only.

Camera to sync module, for other cameras, is by what Blink refer to as LFR, or low frequency radio, and it’s only used because it’s a low power communication method allowing WiFi to be turned off whilst the camera is inactive. This is done to save battery power, which is in very short supply in a battery powered camera.

The mini, which is powered, has no need to turn off WiFi, and doesn’t, so it doesn’t need LFR to remain in contact. Blink minis are on all the time, whereas the others, are in ultra low power monitoring mode only, when not actually recording or in live view.

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Thanks for that explanation, it makes sense now.

Do you know if using a wifi extender between my router and the outdoor camera, to increase signal strength, would work or does the camera need to be directly connected to the router?

An extender can improve connection to any of the cameras, if the camera to router WiFi signal is the one that is weak. If it’s not a mini, and it’s the camera to sync module signal that is weak (LFR), the options are to relocate to improve that signal, or to get another sync module, and give the camera a system all of its own. If both are weak, you may need to do both, an extender, and an extra sync module, which is what I have done for one of my cameras.

You need to do a search of the forum to find out how best to approach this, because there are a number of difficulties to consider.

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Time to start learning and get the facts. You can find those on Blink’s support website. That website is also the owner’s manual. Use the search function like you would with Google. Type in words, topics, phrases, etc. Like Google, you get correct answers, wrong answers, and correct answers buried in multiple threads. You have to read and read some more.

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Thanks, that’s useful.

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We’re customers helping other customers that ask for help. Tips, tricks, ideas, resources is what this community is all about.

I kinda want to buy an indoor mini cam and seal it up with clear silicon. Then put it outside and see how long runs before weather related failure. Hot, cold, rain, ice, snow, etc. At 25-40 bucks depending on phase of the moon, it’s indeed a toy to play with.

I considered getting an indoor unit instead of the outdoor because it’s under a carport roof, but decided not to chance it because of humidity and temperature changes. The main thing for me is not having to run an SWA cable to power it. There are lots of comings and goings, but if the batteries last over 6 months I’ll be happy, although I’ll probably get the 4 battery back pack when it’s available.

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I’ve now set up a spare BT Smart Hub as a wireless access point, connected to my main Smart Hub 2 via ethernet and pointing at the Blink Outdoor camera. WiFi signal strength is up from low to maximum and the camera is connecting faster.

Glad to hear it.

I too repurposed an old BT router, connected by Ethernet, to create an access point, for other reasons. It’s good that it has that functionality. Works a treat for my purposes.

I couldn’t stand the flashing purple disco lights the BT Hub 6 displays when it’s not connected to the Internet, so I swapped it for an EE Brightbox 1. Much more discrete and better control of 2.4GHZ channels.

Funny. The hub I got is now from Plusnet, and the lights were so bright, I’ve put black tape over it. If ever I need to see them, during any sort of very rare issue, I just peel it back. When done I stick it back down again.